Ancient Geek-Computer myths and facts

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  • KarlLBKarlLB Shipmate
    Odd. I thought how much w10 was like older versions, unlike 8.x which was weird.
  • Penny SPenny S Shipmate
    I have a Samsung Galaxy Book which has just one connection, a USB C socket which is used for charging as well as data. It is currently refusing to recognise any data device I try to connect. I have to connect via a couple of adapters, one to microUSB and then from that to USB C. It has worked before. But when I go into File Explorer, it does not see anything. It has charged correctly. I have used the USB to micro adapter successfully with another computer, but don't have another C type to test that with. I have ordered another adapter which will not need to be daisychained.
    I have tested the Samsung USB connector with another computer, and the Galaxy does accept power from it, but neither computer sees the other as a source of data.
  • KarlLBKarlLB Shipmate
    Unfortunately the power and data functions are quite separate. If a factory reset of the tablet doesn't bring it back it's kaput.
  • Penny SPenny S Shipmate
    It is under a year old! But I got it off ebay, so warranty a problem. I do so love having to spend time on tech support instead of actually using the kit for what I got it for. Get the data off via wifi, note the software added to it, reset to factory, rebuild...
    Couldn't find anything in Control Panel.
  • Penny SPenny S Shipmate
    Looks as though vanishing USB ports is a known problem on Samsung. I will research further.
  • Penny SPenny S Shipmate
    But don't need to. I had bought some time ago, a few adapters to keep with the devices to adapt, and had lost them. Came in from watching Mercury, and my eye was drawn to a store of software, so turned it over, and there they were. And they work, as I have been able to access both a flash drive and an external hard drive. Oh Joy oh Rapture! It's the little micro to USB C that is the problem.
  • Golden KeyGolden Key Shipmate
    YAY, Penny! :)
  • LatchKeyKidLatchKeyKid Shipmate
    edited May 2020
    I have had to learn how to transition between OSs from Dos, Xp, 2000, Win7, 8.1 (hated it), and Win 10, as well as some MacOSs and various versions of Linux, so exploring Win10 was never a problem.

    I use Firefox with sync on all devices, plus Opera, and occasionally Chrome and Safari for Macs, never Edge or Cortana.

    Macs haven't turned out to be the wonderful trouble-free PCs they are touted to be, and their WiFi sensitivity leaves something to be desired. Their Pages/Numbers suite is Mac only, and I have learned a bit about them only because my Ministers use them, but I avoid them if I can. They are not free from the built-in obsolescence caused from lack of upgrade availability to later versions of OSs and Apps.

    I have some old MsOffice licences that I use on Win10.

    Having become Church Secretary and finding little or no records, even in paper form, I have set up a Church secretary gMail account to store a record of eMails and use the Google Drive and Google Docs as budgetless way to have a filing system.

    At home I run a Synology DS218+ as a NAS (server) and have individual family accounts and a backup one for the church. I use an old Synology DS214se to backup the DS218+ nightly, so I hope I am pretty secure from any attacks, even if the DS218+ is accessible over the internet. I am going to ask a friend if I can put the backup at his place so I can have an off-site backup.
  • RicardusRicardus Shipmate
    Macs haven't turned out to be the wonderful trouble-free PCs they are touted to be

    I've always had the impression that if Apple are presented with a choice between functional, intuitive, or 'looks cool', they will go with 'looks cool' every time ...
  • Penny SPenny S Shipmate
    And when I started up the Samsung again, it refused to contemplate the keyboard, or the touchpad, and hence no cursor. It has a touch screen, so work aroundable. Rebooted. No change. Turned it off overnight. No change. I had to tell it to go into tablet mode (which it appeared to be in), and then tell it not to be in tablet mode. All well again.
    When I use the washing machine, or the dishwasher, or my car which has computerised parts, they never do this sort of thing.
  • Penny SPenny S Shipmate
    edited June 2020
    I have been attempting to recover old files from storage media - have to dump 3.5 disk backup made on a long gone computer, but would like to access stuff on Iomega 100 Zip files, using a win XP machine - it must have been done using Win 98. I tried installing the software, but it reported missing a .dll file, and though the install continued, the computer could not see the Zip drive, powered up and with a disk in. I had to disconnect and use a paperclip to eject the disk. The drive was reporting it was in use.
    Is it possible to get this up and running long enough to look at the files and possibly transfer them? I have been managing without them time out of mind!
  • KarlLBKarlLB Shipmate
    Penny S wrote: »
    I have been attempting to recover old files from storage media - have to dump 3.5 disk backup made on a long gone computer, but would like to access stuff on Iomega 100 Zip files, using a win XP machine - it must have been done using Win 98. I tried installing the software, but it reported missing a .dll file, and though the install continued, the computer could not see the Zip drive, powered up and with a disk in. I had to disconnect and use a paperclip to eject the disk. The drive was reporting it was in use.
    Is it possible to get this up and running long enough to look at the files and possibly transfer them? I have been managing without them time out of mind!

    Now we're going back. I remember (I used to support them in my first tech job) that these were buggers to get working on NT which was the predecessor to XP.

    Is this an internal or external zip drive? Btw, I'd not rate the chances of this working very highly.
  • I can still access 3.5" floppy disks on Windows 10, using a cheap and cheerful USB disk drive, bought for a previous laptop or computer. I think I made them on Windows 95.
  • KarlLBKarlLB Shipmate
    3.5" not so bad. 100MB Zip a bit harder...
  • Yes, I was querying the need to dispose of the floppies, because I didn't think they'd be impossible
  • Penny SPenny S Shipmate
    I can access the floppies, but what I find is a variety of files with .qic extensions and I am pretty sure that they were created with a backup program which was on an earlier machine and only worked on that machine. I remember commenting that I couldn't see the point of backup which could not be accessed on another machine, in case the first machine died. In a few cases I saved normally, and can get at that stuff. I made sure I had an external drive, and I think I must have some more floppies somewhere. I have some with software I use on them, but I have copied that to a central store for ease of access.
    The Zip drive is external and connected by a USB cable, and powered from the mains.
  • BroJamesBroJames Purgatory Host, 8th Day Host
    A quick search suggests you’re right about the files. It looks as if you’ll need a machine running Windows 95/98/Me to retrieve the backed up files from them.
  • Penny SPenny S Shipmate
    I don't think I actually need them, but it might have been nice to be able to prove they existed at an earlier date. I suspect that, due to what I remember thinking, I moved them effectively to newer machines. Thus changing the dates.
  • I don't suppose some lunatic has made linux drivers for the Zip Drive and a bit of work with a USB live version of linux could get it up and running? You might even be able to get the backup software to run through Wine if you're lucky.
  • If you can get anything to run through Wine you're lucky. I would suggest Virtualbox instead.
  • mousethief wrote: »
    If you can get anything to run through Wine you're lucky. I would suggest Virtualbox instead.

    I always found Wine worked better the older things were. I recall playing a couple of old games through Wine that my Windows install at the time (XP? 7?) couldn't handle. Are you suggesting running an old version of windows as a VM within linux, and still hoping that linux can handle the hardware?
  • mousethiefmousethief Shipmate
    edited June 2020
    I've never had any issues at all with Linux handling the hardware, although my experience with Linux is several years old now (Mint + Cinnamon was my last install).
  • KarlLBKarlLB Shipmate
    edited June 2020
    Penny S wrote: »
    I can access the floppies, but what I find is a variety of files with .qic extensions and I am pretty sure that they were created with a backup program which was on an earlier machine and only worked on that machine. I remember commenting that I couldn't see the point of backup which could not be accessed on another machine, in case the first machine died. In a few cases I saved normally, and can get at that stuff. I made sure I had an external drive, and I think I must have some more floppies somewhere. I have some with software I use on them, but I have copied that to a central store for ease of access.
    The Zip drive is external and connected by a USB cable, and powered from the mains.

    250MB drive.

    You will need to try to get it to use the XP driver. Best of luck. Hold on...
  • Penny SPenny S Shipmate
    Thank you, just about to use link. And it's a 100Mb drive.
  • Penny SPenny S Shipmate
    I think I got as far as Device Manager, but it wasn't visible in Disk Drives. It had both lights on in the Zip Drive, and refused to let go of the disk. Had to use the emergency procedure to get it out. (Disconnect, use paperclip) This is on an XP machine (Service Pack3). I wonder if would work on the Win7 one!
    I also wonder if it would be worth trying it on the Asus XP netbook. (I have a backlog of not-having-got-rid-of things. I think I gave the 98 away to my neice a long time ago, and I suspect she will have got rid of it by now.)
  • KarlLBKarlLB Shipmate
    I'm aware of 250MB Zip USB drives but the 100s I knew were all parallel port, SCSI or IDE (internal) so I'm a bit lost.
  • Penny SPenny S Shipmate
    Definitely USB and definitely 100MB. When I put the installation CD in, I get "S32evnt1.dll Initialization Error", which has instructions on line for dealing with it, involving registry editing. https://www.dll-error-fixes.com/steps-resolve-s32evnt1dll-initialization-error/ As soon as I typed in S32..Duckduckgo came up with the whole phrase! I'm a bit cautious.
  • Penny SPenny S Shipmate
    This was the whole message. “C:\progra~1\Symantec\S32EVNT1.DLL. An installable Virtual Device Driver Failed DLL initialization. Choose 'Close' to terminate the application.”
    I used to have Norton protection, I used the removal tool, as far as I recall. I have no Symantec or Norton folders.
    I appeared to have installed the Iomega software after the message appeared. But it failed to deal with the device.
  • KarlLBKarlLB Shipmate
    Penny S wrote: »
    Definitely USB and definitely 100MB. When I put the installation CD in, I get "S32evnt1.dll Initialization Error", which has instructions on line for dealing with it, involving registry editing. https://www.dll-error-fixes.com/steps-resolve-s32evnt1dll-initialization-error/ As soon as I typed in S32..Duckduckgo came up with the whole phrase! I'm a bit cautious.

    I would be. Some of these pages generate themselves according to your search terms.

    Better solution - start --> type 'cmd' , right click, run as administrator. Do a search for the dll in question by typing dir c:\S32evnt1.dll /s - note the path the file is found on.

    Then type c:\windows\system32
    \regsvr32 PATH\S32evnt1.dll where PATH is where you found the file (e.g. c:\windows\system32) and press enter. That will enter the dll information into the registry.
  • Penny SPenny S Shipmate
    Further investigation has suggested that the fault is not in the software or the symantec file, but in the device itself. When it is not connected to the computer, both lights came on, when the disk was inserted, the eject button did not work. The other possibility that occurs to me is the cable being at fault - I must have another one to try, but I doubt it.
    I'm not going to be able to use it.
    I still have all the Norton CDs!
    I'll have a go to see if I can find that file, though.
    But first, having looked on ebay, I see someone saying that a USB version should work on a later Win version, so I have tried mine on a later Win version, and it remains invisible.
    It's dead. And not worth nearly £100 for a replacement still in its original box!
  • Penny SPenny S Shipmate
    Not sure what to do with the disks - don't want anyone with a working drive getting at them. Just in case there's something there I can't remember.
  • Penny S wrote: »
    Not sure what to do with the disks - don't want anyone with a working drive getting at them. Just in case there's something there I can't remember.

    You're in luck! This is the bit where you get to have fun with a drill, saw or other destructive implement of your choice. Alternatively I'm pretty sure they're susceptible to a good going over with a degausser.
  • KarlLBKarlLB Shipmate
    My experience of zip disks indicates that the chances of them containing anything readable after a few years is quite low...

    They weren't the best product I ever supported.
  • Penny SPenny S Shipmate
    When I had some work done at the last place with ripping out the old kitchen, I found that someone had installed one of those magnetic devices for dealing with hard water. Not a powered one. but it is very, very strong. (I had never noticed that the water was particularly unlikely to leave limescale in the kettle.) I can do the backup 3.5 ones as well.
    How long do flash drives and SD cards last?
    I could probably fit all the stuff from those media on to one micro SD card!
  • Penny S wrote: »
    When I had some work done at the last place with ripping out the old kitchen, I found that someone had installed one of those magnetic devices for dealing with hard water. Not a powered one. but it is very, very strong. (I had never noticed that the water was particularly unlikely to leave limescale in the kettle.) I can do the backup 3.5 ones as well.
    How long do flash drives and SD cards last?
    I could probably fit all the stuff from those media on to one micro SD card!

    If memory serves flash drives and SD cards are pretty robust - they wear out from (many) repeated write cycles but they last quite a while in storage. Those really do need to be physically destroyed.
  • Penny SPenny S Shipmate
    Which is not what I am intending to do. I have a Seagate Wifi device which doesn't call itself a hard drive which I save stuff from all my computers on, so I can work anywhere, and every now and then I copy from it on to an external hard drive as well via cable, but I could also keep back up, not backed up by any proprietary software, but simply as the files, on the smaller stuff -provided that I find a good place to store it where I won't lose track of it. At least the Zip drive was bulky enough not to get lost.
  • I have just (reluctantly) pretty much switched over from Internet Explorer to Edge. :anguished:

    First question... what is the best ad blocker to use? I cannot believe how many ads keep popping up on some sights, often with visuals and sound.

    Secondly... I like to have my webpage at 125% for most things. With IE I could set the enlargement, and it would stay at that percentage on all pages, unless I changed it. With Edge, I have to keep hitting the enlargement button.

    Any help would be appreciated.
  • The zoom is easy - just set it in Settings->Appearance rather than directly on the 3 dots and it makes it the default for all pages rather than just the page you're on.

    Can't help with the ad blocker I'm afraid - I don't use one.
  • Thanks, Arethosemyfeet. I knew there had to be a way.
  • And... I discovered that Microsoft offers Adblock for Edge, so I've installed that. I just checked a couple of pages that were driving me crazy earlier, and most of the ads seem to have disappeared!
  • I have a fairly old WiFi Router (Netgear 33) in my study downstairs.
    Occasionally, I need to use my MacBook Pro upstairs - about as far away from the router as it is possible to get and still be under the same roof. And obviously the signal strength is weak, and drops out completely from time to time. (It's also weak-to-non-existent in the kitchen, which is a real pain if I want to look up a recipe on my iPad, for instance...)

    So, I need to do something to boost the WiFi signal through the house - being an almost complete techno-idiot, can anyone suggest a solution which is a) simple, and which b) works?
  • AlisdairAlisdair Shipmate Posts: 12
    Probably the simplest solution that will work is to buy a powerline wifi extender. One plug unit goes into a mains socket near your router; you connect the two with an ethernet cable. The other plug unit (the one with the wifi gubbins) gets plugged into a mains socket near where ever you plan using your laptop.

    Basically, that's it. You will log in as usual - automatically if the laptop and router are already on established speaking terms. This assumes your mains wiring is reasonably modern, and has been installed to recognisable standards. Wilder possibilities do exist, in which case all bets are off as to whether the powerline system will work. Personally I have never had problems, in a variety of houses.

    Devolo, TP-Link and Netgear are well established players in this game. In the UK you would expect to pay between £40 to £80, but cheaper (yikes!) and more expensive (more yikes!) options are available. Look at online reviews, search: 'best powerline wifi extender'.

    More expensively, and what we use currently, is a 'mesh' system - multiple wifi nodes around the house creating an all embracing wifi system around the whole house (and garden).
  • Alternatively a wireless access point closer to your MacBook and an ethernet cable of whatever length you need to connect it to your router.
  • Or an extender which connects to the router wirelessly.
  • KarlLB wrote: »
    Or an extender which connects to the router wirelessly.

    Yeah, but that halves the available bandwidth. That's ok if you've got a good connection but we found it too restrictive.
  • KarlLB wrote: »
    Or an extender which connects to the router wirelessly.

    Yeah, but that halves the available bandwidth. That's ok if you've got a good connection but we found it too restrictive.

    If you can persuade MrsLB that ethernet cables run from the lounge to the landing are acceptable you're a more persuasive speaker than me.
  • Been there, done that. This is the first house where we have just used wireless. When we moved in we decided we couldn't run the cable upstairs sensibly, especially with children, and actually the computer has since moved from the spare room to the far end of the dining room.
  • I put in a second wifi in the basement, connected wirefully to the modem via one of those through-the-mains devices.
  • Wired to the house which goes to a modem which is a "mesh modem". Then additional little mesh modems anywhere you find coverage is poor, ice hockey puck size and shape (real hockey as in ice). The group of modems "mesh" together to provide a cloud of signal.

    You can get phone apps which will tell you how strong the signal is where you are in the house and what direction they come from.

    Set this up in our office building with 8 mesh modems. Just two at home. I can also see each device's connection and how good it is to the wireless.

    An additional thing can be a USB wireless dongle for a computer with an antenna. Gain about 20% with a device in the nether reaches: turned off laptop's internal modem.

    Do a search on "mesh modems" to get an idea. "Tom's Guide" provides a reasonable into, ignore the specific brand names.
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